Andrew & Esther - Through Our Eyes Archive
Our Thoughts

May 11, 2008
what 1 Euro could buy you if you came to visit
After hanging on for a while, Andrew finally got a haircut. Just out of curiosity and knowing that Magalie, Andrew’s favorite hairdresser in Saint-Julien charged a mere 17 EUR, we asked how much it would cost. It turned out it was “sì kuài”, meaning either RMB 4 or 10 - both numbers are pronounced the same in Shanghainese. Figuring RMB 10 was still less than 1 Euro, we gave it a shot. So, okay, there was no particular art in the trimming but for 1 EUR, we think the guy did a great job. Lost in my word list, I didn’t quite manage to save the side-burns in time but never mind. We certainly don’t have styling vocabulary down yet either, so at the end the young hairdresser went ahead and combed Andrew’s hair back to resemble a hip blond Chinese teen. Seemed pretty funny to us, but I’m not sure people could understand why we’d take a picture at the hairdresser’s. I also found it entertaining to see three Chinese barbers discussing dying techniques using a Western blond doll, so I stole a shot of that too.

We’ve already observed so many fascinating things during our time here. Yet I fear that over time, our eyes might grow lazy. So we try to work against observation laziness in keeping our eyes peeled for new things and continue to jot them down. One of our most recent observations has been noticing the speed of change here in Shanghai. One day our DVD store is renting videos for 2 kuài / piece. The next day, the shop looks different and has been taken over and now only sells DVDs for RMB 15! One day, I notice a panel of company logos announcing the arrival of a new business complex. The next day, the building is painted, there is a driveway that appears and with it, a brand new 15 x 15m water wall. China is just incredible like that! No one is striking or complaining about being paid too little or having to work too long. A whole army will get a job done in hours, that would take years to complete in Europe. My mind boggles thinking of the time it is taking to repair the A1 freeway outside of Geneva or dig the Mulhouse metro line - we're talking years!

It’s been fun to study food with our new classmates and even go shopping with the teacher. Lī Laoshī is a star to put up with me bringing water bills to class, going shopping with us or explaining mysterious observations like the time I noticed duvets and one stuffed animal decorating each of the park benches on the university campus. To add to the list of discoveries, we’ve been learning about many different Chinese foods, which builds up our courage to taste more things from street vendors: fried crispy noodles, stretched like spaghetti wrapped around two hands before thrown into sizzling oil or "zòngzi" - sticky rice spotted with red beans in a pyramid shaped giant leaf. We love food, so it’s been exciting to try new things. Tonight however, we decided we’d try our normal stir-fry loading it with plenty of vegetables. It seems a bit warm outside to buy/eat the market chicken, so we went to Carrefour and were pleasantly surprised that the store was giving away 25 kuài for every 200 spent. We hadn’t shopped since the Philippines so we were the annoying customers, who had to swipe the card, punch in the pin code and sign every time it reached RMB 200 (25 EUR). Still, we happily accepted the discount and went to spend some of it on our local veggie market. We’re famous there by the way - lol. Today, 2 large carrots, 350gr exotic mushrooms, a head of broccoli, an onion, ginger, an apple and 400gr of mange-tout green beans cost us one Euro. Yeeaah.

To paint a fair picture though, we often long for fresh French food and justify going to a French restaurant or Paul’s at most celebratory occasions. (We were engaged one year ago today, does that count for something? :)) The night we arrived from the Philippines, we went to restaurant 570 for a gorgeous celebration of our 7 weeks in China. With Monday’s giving all VIP card holder’s 50% off, it seemed even more justifiable :). Actually, we both miss France quite a bit, so besides the stir fry, we resorted to a rather French weekend. Yesterday we busted our piggy bank and got a croissant, a plié au chocolat and a voluptuous real coffee. On top of that, we saw French singer Keren Ann in concert last night. We liked the surtitling “Keren Ann’s concert” as seen in the picture. Besides that, it was an interesting French response to Norah Jones adding some experimental chords and instruments – just a shame the guy at the mixer was half asleep. Anyway, to top off our French weekend, tonight we might just have to crack open a bottle of wine.

PS: Thought I’d leave you with a sign we saw in the subway last night: