Andrew & Esther - Through Our Eyes Archive
Our Thoughts

May 4, 2008
on visa-runs and escaping hotel fires
We made it safely back to the comfort of our own home. This, as you will be able to read further, is certainly not a given! Let’s say that we'd not consider our Philippines escapade to have been a very restful time but it sure was adventuresome.

We’d originally hoped to use the long May holiday to jet over to Seoul to visit my brother; thus completing our ‘visa run’ and visiting family at the same time. But in fact, tickets to Seoul turned out about as expensive as a cheap flight from China to the US, so we unfortunately had to give it a miss. That’s when Andrew came across a great deal with Filipino Cebu Pacific airlines to Manila. After a weeks’ research to find the perfect place with clean air not too far from the Filipino capital, we rushed back to the flight information only to find it had actually dropped in price. Surprised at the reward for our hesitation, we immediately booked our tickets.

We discovered the Philippines to be a land of gorgeous people and many smiley faces. Though there was an unmistakable island feel; fashion, service and food seemed quite westernized. People were so very friendly and English is widely spoken, much more so than in China. Landscapes were breathtaking, forests lush and buzzing, homes and tricycles (side-car taxis as pictured here) each beautifully colorful. The climate was definitely tropical. In fact, stepping off the airplane at 4am was like entering into a muggy sauna; a foretaste as many have told us of the much dreaded, rapidly-approaching, Chinese summer - yikes. We found a metered cab to make up for our ignorance in regards to rates and we groggily set off to City State Tower hotel to wait for the 2 hour bus to Batangas pier, before boarding the Si-Kat catamaran for 1h30 to the island of Puerto Galera. We had it all planned out, straight down to the hotel, which was hard to find. It turns out, the Filipinos have this May holiday off as well.

The drive turned out to be quite an adventure in itself as the driver was flagged down by Manila metropolitan police, supposedly for driving the wrong way in a one-way street. Frankly, I never saw a one-way. As he stepped out to speak to the police, we waited in the rear of the cab, checking back at the trunk and ready to jump out, wondering if this was a scam or if our luggage was about to be lifted from the car. The cab driver came back into the car, shaky and on the brim of tears and asked us if we could do him a favor. “Could you talk to them? Just small paper enough. 200 I think. Or else they take my license. Please, I have no money, you are my first run today”. We never found out whether or not this might be a scam. Yet knowing we had to make the tough decision between being the dumb tourist or giving into our conscience, declined the favor based on the fact that we only had larger bills. Still, sporting the slight possibility this might be for real, we gave him a sizable tip.

The bus trip from the hotel might have been more eventful had we been awake, but it ended up rocking us back to resume our night’s sleep. My eyes simply captured vivid colors of decorated open metal buses of years past, impregnating my mind until my eyelids slowly closed, blurring the colors into a dreamy rainbow blend. Before I knew it, off we were on our merry way to the catamaran, essentially a 15 meter narrow boat with blue and yellow painted bamboo stabilizers on either side. We waited patiently what seemed like an eternity for passengers, drenched by the humidity.

“Si-kats never depart half empty” said our new friend Sam, obviously reading our puzzled and wiped faces. Sam introduced himself and eventually unraveled his story of how he fled North America 10 years prior, just before the cops were to catch him for growing Marijuana. He seemed like a really nice diver type and on top of that was Philippines savvy, especially in regards to marine life. Somehow, he convinced us to stay at his resort “Badguyz”. It was only a third of the price of our reservation, and sounded like a great set-up for divers. It turned out to be a very basic room (see picture lower down, of the hotel and our balcony amongst the trees), built of plywood, corrugated metal and thatched roofs with plenty of wildlife from ants to mosquitoes to the odd cockroach and lizard darting in and out the cracks of the walls. You could hear the neighbor sneeze and I was woken up by every noise. But we still felt you get what you pay for and at 13EUR, it seemed totally worth it - we're young!

We’d seen a secluded beach from the Si-kat and felt it to be the perfect getaway to think and pray together and for one another the following day. (picture above taken from water taxi on our way to this beach) We spent that whole day in paradise. Turquoise water, beaches of coral and shells surrounded by virgin jungle behind us. A great day of rest besides the throbbing headache I always get from too much sun.

At last back at the “resort”, I tried to sleep the headache off, then we watched the thought and nightmare provoking documentary: “Darfur, the Devil came on Horseback”. Eventually night fell. We’d heard power outages are frequent, leaving in a miserable sweat bath without air-conditioning or fan. Sure enough, at about 12:30 the aircon chugged to a grinding halt, leaving only the sound of crickets and essentially the jungle around us. A half an hour later, the backup generator started to work, sounding like a truck engine start. And then, we fell asleep for a brief two winks.

All the sudden, I hear Sam yell: “J*sus Ch*rst! Everyone wake up! Everyone up!” I ran to the window to see that a mere 5 meters from our room, the generator had blown up and caught fire. I saw huge flames approximately 3m high from the electrical fire and billowing smoke. It felt like we were in a film. The only thing separating us from the fire was the thatched roof walkway, threatening to set alight. In a panic, I woke Andrew up, yelled outside for other guests to get up and grabbed our bag of essentials and Andrew the laptop as we rushed outside. The only exit was near the fire so we ran to the furthest balcony. No fire engines, no skilled workers, just Sam and his friends trying desperately to avoid the large fire from catching near neighboring thatched roofs. The diving school was under our feet, with plenty of O2 bottles. An open butane tank and paint and thinners lie near the door of the flaming house. Somehow, by the grace of God, Sam dove into the house to doust the flames with special foam for electric fires. He’d held onto that fire extinguisher bottle for years for a time like this. Sam and his friends continued to dominate the flames, ravaging the corrugated roof looking for embers. All the sudden, a man upon the roof when flying through the corrugation to the ground. Gasps. “Are you alright?” a British accent finally yelled. “Uh yeah.” And then, if that hadn’t sufficed in pumping our adrenaline, the power returned to the island, starting to spark at the mains in the midst of still glowing embers. Returning to the chaos of moments prior, the British voice yelled: “Aircons, everyone turn your aircons off! Aircons, do you all have them switched off?” We scurried in obedience through the lingering smoke to our rooms. Finally, the power was turned off and everyone was sort of left in a daze and thankful for their lives.

Our hearts beat from adrenaline for hours as we returned to our pitch black, sweaty smoky rooms, every noise startling us (me). Without the backup generator or power, it felt like a burst warm water bed, but we resorted to try to talk ourselves to sleep none the less. It was a short night, where we were both eaten alive my bugs and I heard noises all night. I got into a pattern of waking up and then falling back to sleep, still shaken by the fire incident. One time, I felt something was for sure nibbling at something else near my head. I grabbed the camera for a semblance of light as Andrew swatted a cockroach half the size of his palm. I guess the smoke and thunder storms had sent all the bugs running our way for safety. Finally the morning came. We had planned to stay a final night there but Andrew marched out hunting for a last minute upgrade hotel despite the busy holiday weekend and after several calls, actually found a family room left at one hotel. We ended up on the other side of the bay and sort of recovered all day by the pool and incidentally experienced outages all night there from an over-populated island pumping the aircon units. Back at Sam’s place, this meant another night with very spotty air-conditioning all night long.

Anyway, we did enjoy our short stay in the Philippines very much. What a beautiful place! Yet we're happy to be back home in China where noises are at least beginning to be a little more familiar (firecrackers, recycle man bell, maintanence recordings..)! Boy, what an adventure – all that for a simple visa-run. What a bargain at that.